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The gray sky couldn’t fully mute the reds, yellows, greens and oranges of fall that were sprinkled throughout the rolling hills surrounding Heidelberg today. The colors popped through a lacy mist draped over the valley. The fall hues weren’t the only colors stubborn enough to stand out from the gray haze. “Heidelberg is known for it’s colorful rooftop landscape,” said Charlotte. Charlotte was the tour guide for our official “introduction to Germany,” our introduction to the aged land. I couldn’t help but think the misty atmosphere set the perfect mood for our slow saunter through a historic German town marked by Baroque architecture and art.

The tour of Heidelberg jump started the series of activities John Deere has scheduled for our group of ag journalists. We are here to learn about John Deere’s growing prominence in the European agriculture industry, Germany’s deep-rooted agricultural value and the latest innovations in farm machinery being showcased in Agritechnica 2007 – which kicks off next week.

I can’t speak for the rest of the group, but for me, getting acquainted with a notably historic city in Germany seemed like a most appropriate way start to exploring the country’s agricultural identity. One of Heidelberg’s biggest draws is it’s authenticity. Heidelberg is one of the few cities that was left unscathed by the bombings of World War II. This doesn’t mean the city didn’t face it’s share of devastation and destruction from enormous blasts of gunpowder during the Thirty Years War, and by the French in 1689 and 1693. It also suffered a stone-crumbling strike of lightening in 1764. But, it does mean that many buildings that enclose the city’s quaint market squares and the famed castle ruins that sit 300 feet above are true remnants of historic Germany and are not some mere recreations.

The remains of Schloss Heidelberg Castle are the most dominant features of the Heidelberg landscape, resting above the River Neckar. They once housed the Palatine princes during the Holy Roman Empire of the 15th century. The castle’s Elizabeth gate is a warm symbol of romance for Germans, as the gate was a gift from a young 19-year-old prince to his young 19-year-old wife. The most notable artifacts inside the castle are the enormous wine barrels, including the world’s largest wine barrel which can hold about 55,000 gallons of wine. Today, the barrel remains empty. Heidelberg’s old bridge which spans the River Neckar is one of Germany’s most famed bridges. Heidelberg is also home to Germany’s oldest University, which was founded in 1386. The charm of this old German city also caught the poignant attention of Mark Twain, who delighted over its splendor in his book A Tramp Abroad.

Our tour guide Charlotte seemed just as enthralled with the city as Mark Twain. She spoke of the city, the castle and the intimate realities and secrets of the Palatine rulers with enthusiasm, speaking of them with a fondness almost befitting that of a beloved relative. Charlotte brought the figures of Heidelberg’s history to life and her recount of events lured you into the storied drama of Heidelberg.

After a most impressive tour of the city, we dined at a locally owned bierhaus for dinner, blanking on the name of it. I tried both the light Pilsner bier and the dark Double Boch beir. I liked the dark bier better. The first dish with dark greens drizzled in peppercorn ranch and served with goat cheese wrapped in salted ham were was most savory.

I’m so exhausted in that pic from lack of sleep…

Here’s an excerpt about Heidleberg Schloss or Heidelberg Castle from Mark Twain:

A ruin must be rightly situated, to be effective. This one could not have been better placed. It stands upon a commanding elevation, it is buried in green woods, there is no level ground about it, but, on the contrary, there are wooded terraces upon terraces, and one looks down through shining leaves into profound chasms and abysses where twilight reigns and the sun cannot intrude. Nature knows how to garnish a ruin to get the best effect. One of these old towers is split down the middle, and one half has tumbled aside. It tumbled in such a way as to establish itself in a picturesque attitude. Then all it lacked was a fitting drapery, and Nature has furnished that; she has robed the rugged mass in flowers and verdure, and made it a charm to the eye. The standing half exposes its arched and cavernous rooms to you, like open, toothless mouths; there, too, the vines and flowers have done their work of grace. The rear portion of the tower has not been neglected, either, but is clothed with a clinging garment of polished ivy which hides the wounds and stains of time. Even the top is not left bare, but is crowned with a flourishing group of trees & shrubs. Misfortune has done for this old tower what it has done for the human character sometimes?improved it.

Heidelberg Photo Abum

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